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| Lee Alexander McQueen |
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| Sarah Burton |
I've chosen to look at the Spring/Summer 2012 and Autumn/Winter 2012 collections of the Alexander McQueen brand designed by their creative director Sarah Burton (designer of Kate Middleton, The Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding dress). These were Sarah Burton’s third collection for this fashion house following the suicide of Lee Alexander McQueen in 2010.
Spring/Summer 2012
In this collection Burton went for a very feminine look, focusing on the female physique with accent on the breasts, waist hips and leg length. The pieces are fitted around the torso of the model with soft fitting lines and no visible angles flowing down to circular cut skirts, peplums and gently billowing trapeze line skirts which elongate the legs. Underneath some of the garments were glimpses of caged, leather corsetry which gave the pieces a dramatic twist. Burton stated that she was inspired to design this collection while ‘Thinking about a woman as an object of desire ~ we go to such lengths to adorn ourselves that we almost become our clothes, or are taken over by them’.
For some of the collection Burton chose to use pale pastels with gold and silver metallics which give an impression of goddess like gentleness and femininity. Others were created in the more dramatic reds and blacks which give the impression strength and sexuality - which on reflection are the opposing sides of the female personality.
Burton chose to use copious amounts of embellishment techniques including ruching, pleating, water fall ruffles and frills as well as embellishing with materials such as silks, semi precious stones and metal encrusted embroidery this all gives the viewer an impression of the way women of all races and cultures adorn themselves. Head dresses were also included in some of the pieces - tight fitting helmets of intricate hand made lace, some of which covered the faces of the models.
Make up was neutral and minimalistic, with hair braided and swept close to the head sometimes through the head dresses which carried on the fitted, feminine, embellished theme.
The design of the catwalk set itself was simplistic, bright and neutral with a futuristic twist using a huge chandelier made of white neon tube bulbs vertically suspended for the models to walk around. The music was dramatic, electronic rock with futuristic wind chime and bells sounds - carrying on the theme of the opposing sides of the softness and strength of femininity.
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| Catwalk Set |
Autumn/Winter 2012
I thoroughly enjoy this collection, it's one of my favourites so far. Futuristic and strong, the collection is described. It's inspiration from nature, the forest floor, mushrooms, light and shade. The pieces are strong as well as feminine using natural materials such as ostrich feathers, mohair, furs, Mongolian lambs wool and silks embellished with enamelled and felt flowers. Using shape, texture, print and embellishment the pieces flow and move in a three dimensional way seeming to have a life of their own. Fitted jackets, some with open backs and dramatic Mongolian lamb wool collars worn with bell shaped rolled skirts give a feminine but strong appearance.
Burton used laser cutting to create the intricate pattern on some the jackets called ‘pony skin’ created in cream on a black under fabric for dramatic effect. ‘Jelly Fish’ dresses created using masses of over-sized ruffles and heavy pleating add to the drama with waists cinched in with wide metallic silver belts.
Footwear is futuristic - Burton likes to use the ‘heelless shoe’ adorned with furs and feathers linking them to the pieces being modelled. The models wore neutral make up but with dramatic red lipstick. Their short, bleached, swept back hair and space age wrap around ‘visor’ glasses continued the futuristic theme.
The catwalk set was dark and dramatic with use of light and shade - spot lighting the models as they walked which helped highlight the movement in the natural materials used. A large chandelier of cascading light bulbs complemented the surreal look of the whole show. The music composed by John Gosling was futuristic and strong using synthesisers and surreal chimes and bells which continued the futuristic but beautiful, natural feminine theme.
Summary
Overall, I feel both collections are powerful and inspiring. Sarah Burton has looked at Femininity and Strength and combined these two to create two stunning and breathtaking collections. Natural materials such as feathers, fur, silk and leather are used together to create a flowing, organic look. However she puts a twist on this theme by including futuristic designs using metallic's and three dimensional structured shapes. Her use of dramatic pleating and ruffling inspires me as these are techniques I enjoy using in my work. Both collections have some similarities showcasing Burton’s trademark embellished heelless shoes and the overall futuristic look.
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